Jammin’ With Jerk Chicken in Oneonta, New York

At a young age I became enamored with Caribbean music, culture, and later food. Rockland County, New York is a giant melting pot, and where I grew up around immigrants from island nations such as Haiti, Jamaica, and the Dominican Republic. In close quarters, the lines tend to blur, and cultural aspects blend together like ackee and saltfish.

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I first noticed Junior's Jerk Hut posted outside Cabral's Caribbean Store in downtown Oneonta. Utilizing the classic 55 gallon barrel turned grill seen on countless streets in Jamaica, with fragrant smoke billowing from all sides, I knew right away that this was the real deal.

Run by Jamaican expat Nakia Facey, Junior's Jerk Hut's focus is jerk chicken. Originating with indigenous peoples in Jamaica from the Arawak and Taíno tribes, and later perfected by the Maroons, or freed slaves of African descent, jerk cooking refers to the spices used to marinate the meat. Jerk seasoning is primarily made from allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers. Traditionally, pork and chicken are the most used proteins, but today, fish, shrimp, shellfish, beef, sausage, lamb, goat, tofu, and vegetables find themselves cooked with jerk seasoning and techniques.

Facey's version is the stuff of legends. One bite and I was transported right to a neighborhood in Jamaica where jerk huts are on every corner. The chicken cooked to perfection after being marinated in jerk spices over charcoal. When pulled from the heat it's sauced with a drizzle that evokes more heat. Facey also has a secret recipe hot hot hot sauce that will numb your face and make you sweat, just the way I like it.

You can find Junior's Jerk Hut most weekends at Cabral's Caribbean Store, 300 Main St in Oneonta.